Leaving Corfu Town, three different routes lead to the south. The first runs down the east coast by way of the villages of Benitses and Moraitika, formerly fishing villages and now tourist destinations, a road that twists and turns like the route of the Monte Carlo Rally, lined with tourists, bars and bustle. The second road heads inland, running high along the side of Agii Deka, passing through olive groves and tzitzika trees. The third route, hugging the slopes of Agios Mattheos mountain, takes you through the main village of the region, the impressive Agios Mattheos. with panoramic views of the Ionian Sea.These three routes eventually meet, by a small bridge. From here on there is no more choice between mountain and sea, solitude and bustle. There is only one wide, straight, inland road- beyond the bridge the way to the South opens. Crossing the bridge which in effect divides the central area of the island from Lefkimmi, a road goes to the right, signposted to Agios Mattheos. It runs in a northwesterly direction and then a smaller road goes off to the left, towards Agios Mattheos Camping, Gardiki, Alonaki finally reaching the shores of the Ionian Sea at Lake Korission.

 

Gardiki: a low foothill of the Agios Mattheos mountain range on which stand the ruined octagonal walls of a Byzantine fortress. It was probably built during the 13th century, by Michael II, Despot of Epirus, who also built the castle of Angelokastro, at about the same time. It has eight decorated towers, built using materials from ancient times. After Gardaki, the road continues south, becomes a track, and reaches the north-west corner of Lake Korission at Mesavrisi.

Lake Korission: actually a lagoon, it is long and narrow and extends over an area of 6000 stremmata (1500 acres), in which the local communities have applied systematic methods of fish farming. With the Ionian Sea washing across a spit of land on to Halikounas Beach, it is a magical spot, where sea and sand dunes blend, enhanced by fantastic sunsets. The track runs on and ends where the lake empties into the sea. Here, beside the ranger’s cabin with its three guard dogs, there is a small wooden bridge, which carries you into a unique forest where cedars grow on dunes dotted with white lilies and 14 species of orchid. It is not hard to find the footpath through the forest, which leads eventually to the northern end of Agios Georgios Beach. The entire area, from the lake to the far edge of the forest, constitutes an important wetlands habitat, where 126 different kinds of birds have been observed. In just one day, 1700 widgeons and 300 cormorants were counted, while the endangered Great White Egret numbers over 90.

Alonaki: a small natural harbour at the southern tip of Lake Korission, just as lovely as everything else in this region. To reach it, follow the lake road south to a stretch right on the sea, with a view of the bay.

Chlomotiana, Chlomos, Agios Dimitrios, Kato Spilaio: returning to the main road, the National Lefkimmi Road, you proceed south, passing turnings to Chlomotiana, Chlomos, Agios Dimitrios and Kato Spilaio, pretty villages set on low hills with views of the surrounding countryside. Chlomos was the home of Thomas Palaiologos, brother of the last Byzantine emperor and last Despot of Epirus after the occupation of the Peloponnese by the Turks.

Argyrades: at a distance of 33 kilometres from Corfu Town, it is a substantial village with a population of 2000 inhabitants. The alleyways, the arcades and the architectural style of the houses are strongly reminiscent of the Venetian era.

Agios Georgios: just before the village of Argyrades, a road to the right runs down to the beach of Agios Georgios. Essentially Halikounas and Agios Georgios are one huge beach, 10 kilometres in length, with sand dunes, fine sand and shallow water. In such a vast expanse, you can be sure of finding a secluded spot to yourself; even at the height of the tourist season. In the centre of Agios Georgios, though, things are somewhat different: hotels and rented accommodation, restaurants and bars, ski, jet-ski, paragliding, parachuting, volleyball, and, as you can imagine, people everywhere. In the middle of Argyrades a road junction is signposted to Neohoraki, Roumanades, Vassilatika, Kouspades, Korakades and Petriti, all villages on the east coast and all well worth a visit.

Neohoraki: settled in the 19th century by Albanians: the ‘Gazetta’ of 1847 refers to the ‘Neocori Albanese’.

Petriti: in ancient times called Egripos, it is a seaside village with fish tavernas, a view towards the mainland, and a rich history. It belonged to the Byzantine landowner of the region, Petriti or Petretino, who granted the village to the Palatianos family, probably as a dowry. A Byzantine tower belonging to this family remains intact. The foundations of a brick-built structure five metres in diameter, dating from Roman times, were probably those of a grain store or a cistern.

Boukari: also a seaside village with tavernas right on the water’s edge, located just north of Petriti. Archaeological studies mention the existence of a Neolithic settlement here.

Korakades: which has ancient Hellenistic origins, suffered a severe landslide some 30 years ago, causing the inhabitants to move down to Petriti, taking with them their traditional customs.